The Most interesting Crewneck (and new Dartmoor) – Everlasting Model

This feels virtually nostalgic. The ‘most interesting knitwear’ was one of many first correct collaborations we did, six years in the past, with the superb Umbria Verde in Italy. 

We discontinued it as a result of I wished to give attention to collared knits and cardigans – the Dartmoor, the Most interesting Cardigan – and that felt extra like a spot available in the market. 

However ever since, repeatedly and even continuously, affectionately and typically passionately, PS readers have written to say how a lot they beloved it. 

The best crewneck was a wardrobe staple, a base layer to go along with every thing. It was nice for journey, as a result of it was light-weight and packed up so small. I keep in mind just a few prospects snapping up the final dozen or so, to protect towards future wants. 

Thankfully, PS is now an even bigger operation, and we will afford extra traces (the price being largely advance cost, the price of holding inventory, and to a lesser extent storage). So we’ve introduced the crewneck again – initially simply in navy, however probably in additional colors if it proves well-liked. 

And we’ve additionally restocked the collared Dartmoor this week – initially a collaboration with John Smedley, however now made to the next commonplace by Umbria Verde – together with a brand new black color (beneath). 

So what was – what’s – so good in regards to the Most interesting Crewneck?

Most interesting wool, most interesting gauge

The concept was that it might be each the best supplies and the best make.

Why? Properly, the best merino feels as delicate as cashmere, however is extra sturdy. When cashmere is knitted finely, it capsules extra and might lose form – that’s why nice cashmere knits often have a silk ingredient, for power. 

For me, nice merino is a greater possibility. It seems good however matte, with none silkiness. Extra of a menswear staple. 

Working with Umbria Verde, we may then knit that merino notably intently. They use an tailored knitting mattress to knit at 37 gauge (the variety of needles per inch); Smedley’s nice knit, by comparability, is 30 gauge. 

This denser knitting is what provides the crewneck such physique, a very pretty drape, and makes it stronger. I don’t just like the idea of ‘stealth wealth’, however this matches that definition of one thing that’s superior however understated – everybody goes for cashmere as a result of it’s a label, however for a nice knit, merino is best (and no cheaper!). 

Most interesting make

Simply as with the knitting, Umbria pulls out all of the stops in relation to the manufacture. 

These little particulars elevate the product, however are additionally what the fabric deserves: there’s no level utilizing lovely material after which placing it collectively in something however one of the simplest ways. 

Under are two examples. Within the first picture, notice the be part of between the physique and the sleeve. That is virtually twice as vast as on a bit of normal knitwear and, in consequence, thinner and flatter. As with the identical seam on a bespoke shirt, having it flatter (and curved) makes it extra comfy.

Second, have a look at the shoulder level within the second picture, the place the shoulder and two sides of the sleeve meet. On most knitwear there’s a exhausting little knot, the place the yarn is folded again on itself. With Umbria, the purpose is flattened out and re-stitched, so the knot is eliminated.

As talked about again in 2017, that is work Umbria developed for its top-end prospects, who’re mainly the posh manufacturers I nonetheless respect and would purchase from. It’s higher to not identify them, however readers gained’t have exhausting time guessing who. 

The model

We’ve made one small change to how the Most interesting Crewneck is lower, which is that the physique is now 2cm wider on all sizes. 

To be trustworthy, the earlier iteration was fairly slim – slimmer than another PS product – and this makes it a bit of extra comfy in addition to extra consistent with different PS objects. 

As you possibly can see from the pictures, it has a reasonably excessive collar – however nonetheless works properly with a shirt collar beneath, not strangling it. The knit has an extended rib on the underside (7cm), which I’ve at all times thought is a pleasant solution to push physique proportions subtly in the direction of the extra flattering. And the cuff is a contact longer too. 

That’s has a single cuff, not like the Dartmoor, as I feel it matches the cleaner, stripped-back look of the crewneck and its use usually as a mid-layer. 

Just like the Dartmoor, being a nice gauge makes it smarter than most knitwear. It’s subsequently most at residence with a wise pair of trousers – excellent for the workplace employee who needs one thing to put on as a substitute of a shirt together with his tailor-made strides or good chinos. 

It may be worn with extra informal trousers, comparable to denims, however I might at all times err in the direction of the smarter finish of any such class – an ecru denim or a darkish indigo one, in a neat lower, not a baggier mid-blue with rips or heavy fades. It wouldn’t look mistaken essentially, you’re simply not benefiting from the model. 

In addition to sporting it by itself like that, indoors, I put on the crewneck as a layer underneath tailoring (as beneath) in addition to underneath extra informal outer layers like Tebas, fleeces, suede jackets and layered underneath shawl-collar cardigans. 

As readers have usually commented, it’s an amazing layering piece – notably helpful at the moment of yr – and is nice for journey. It folds up small and solely weighs 150g. 

Beneath, I are likely to put on a nice T-shirt, just like the PS Undershirt. It may be worn towards the pores and skin, however you’ll want to clean it extra repeatedly and that takes extra care.

The total particulars of the Most interesting Crewneck are listed on the backside of this publish, together with factors on care and upkeep.

I additionally want to say that the favored Dartmoor is again, with the navy, gray and olive restocked, and new color – black. 

Readers in all probability gained’t be stunned to listen to that that is the brand new iteration, notably as I’ve discovered knitwear one of many best methods to put on black. It’s a pleasant, much less traditional various to navy with a complete vary of trousers – brown, olive, cream, navy, many shades of beige, all shades of gray – and might even be mixed with black trousers for a extra night look, as with the favored all-black look posted right here. 

I also needs to say that we’ve needed to enhance costs on each the Dartmoor and Most interesting Crewneck because of elevated prices from suppliers. That’s the one motive, nevertheless, and people luxurious manufacturers talked about know promote this high quality of knitwear at over £500. (There’s an fascinating multiplier impact there – if greater manufacturers use greater multiples on their prices, they grow to be much more costly comparatively as prices enhance.)

Particulars on the Most interesting Crewneck:

• Made with Loro Piana Want merino wool
• Knitted at 37 gauge by Umbria Verde in Italy
• Finely long-established and completed on all seams
• Weighs 150g, folds up small
• Price £225 plus VAT

Care:

• Typically hand wash or dry clear 
• May be machine washed on a cool, wool setting, however machines fluctuate, so solely really useful with a machine that you just repeatedly wash woollen knits
• Brush with a delicate garments brush to take away lint and light-weight filth
• Though sturdy, that is nonetheless a nice garment, so deal with with care
• Don’t chuck into the underside of a bag or shove into an overcrowded drawer
• Equally, don’t pull exhausting or quick when taking over/off (sounds loopy, however I’ve seen folks rip on the factor)

Sizing: 

• Matches reasonably slim, common size
• Simon wears a Medium, and is 6 foot, with a 39-inch chest and 33-inch waist
• However as ever, examine measurements beneath to a garment you have already got, quite than start with physique measurements
• Shouldn’t shrink or stretch/give over time